Where Are GFCI Outlets Required in a Home?
Quick answer
The National Electrical Code answers this with a list, not a principle. Section 210.8(A) names eleven locations in a dwelling where receptacles must have GFCI protection: bathrooms, garages and similar accessory buildings, outdoors, crawl spaces at or below grade, basements, kitchens, within 6 ft of a sink bowl, boathouses, within 6 ft of a bathtub or shower stall, laundry areas, and indoor damp or wet locations. [2] If an outlet in your house sits in one of those eleven places, GFCI protection is not a preference.
Two things then decide the details: which edition of the code your jurisdiction has adopted, because three items on that list changed in recent cycles, and whether the location is damp or wet, which brings two more requirements on top of the GFCI itself. [6][9]
The key points:
- It is a list, not a judgment call. You do not have to reason from "is this damp?" The code enumerates the locations. Reasoning from moisture is how people miss boathouses and laundry areas.
- Two of the eleven items are distance rules, not room rules. Within 6 ft of a sink bowl, and within 6 ft of a bathtub or shower stall — measured from specific edges. A bedroom outlet can land inside one of these.
- The edition matters more than most homeowners expect. Kitchens, basements, and the voltage range are worded differently across recent editions. An answer that was right in 2017 can be incomplete now.
- Outdoors, GFCI is only one of three requirements. An outdoor GFCI outlet also has to be a listed weather-resistant type, and in a wet location the enclosure has to stay weatherproof with a plug inserted, with an outlet box hood listed and marked "extra-duty". [6][9]
- Self-test stopped being a feature you shop for in 2015. UL 943 has required auto-monitoring in every GFCI manufactured since June 29, 2015. [3][4] If the device is newer than that, it self-tests.
The list itself: eleven locations named in 210.8(A)
Most articles on this question describe a pattern — water, damp, concrete — and leave you to apply it. The code does not work that way. Section 210.8(A) enumerates the locations, and the enumeration is what an inspector reads from.
The eleven items below are quoted from the codified text of 210.8(A)(1) through (A)(11) as adopted in one state. [2] Read them as the structure of the requirement; the wording of items 5, 6 and the voltage scope varies by edition, which the next section covers.
| # | How the code names the location | What that means in a house |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Bathrooms | Every receptacle in the room, not only the one by the vanity |
| 2 | Garages, and accessory buildings with a floor at or below grade not intended as habitable rooms, limited to storage, work, and similar-use areas | Attached garages, detached garages, and grade-level sheds or shops used for storage or work |
| 3 | Outdoors | Any receptacle outside the building envelope — porch, deck, patio, exterior wall, near a hose bib |
| 4 | Crawl spaces at or below grade level | The whole space, whether or not it looks dry |
| 5 | Basements | Wording varies by edition; see the next section |
| 6 | Kitchens | Wording varies by edition; see the next section |
| 7 | Sinks — receptacles within 1.8 m (6 ft) from the top inside edge of the bowl | A distance rule, not a room rule. Applies in a laundry room, wet bar, garage, or utility area |
| 8 | Boathouses | The item people forget exists |
| 9 | Bathtubs or shower stalls — receptacles within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge | Another distance rule. Can reach an outlet on the far side of a wall opening |
| 10 | Laundry areas | The area, not just the receptacle behind the washer |
| 11 | Indoor damp and wet locations | Covers indoor spaces the first ten items do not name |
The scope sentence above the list matters too. In the adoption quoted here, it applies to 125-volt receptacles supplied by single-phase branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground; [2] other adoptions extend that to 250 volts. This is the first thing to check against your own jurisdiction rather than assume.
The practical consequence of it being a list: reasoning from moisture gets you bathrooms, kitchens, and outdoors, and then stops. It does not get you boathouses, laundry areas, or an outlet 5 ft from a wet-bar sink in a finished room. If you are walking a house, walk the list.
Which edition applies to you, and the three items that moved
This is the part that makes a general answer risky. The NEC is republished on a three-year cycle, and jurisdictions adopt editions on their own schedule — some states are several cycles behind, and some adopt with amendments. So the honest answer to "is this required?" is always "under the edition adopted where the work is done."
Three items on the eleven-item list have moved in recent cycles, and all three affect ordinary houses:
| Item | Wording in older adoptions | Wording in newer editions | What to check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kitchens (item 6) | Only receptacles "installed to serve the countertop surfaces" [2] | The countertop limitation was removed, extending the requirement to kitchen receptacles generally [7] | Whether your edition still limits item 6 to countertop-serving receptacles |
| Basements (item 5) | Applied to unfinished portions, and walk-out basements were excluded by exception [2] | Applied to basements as a whole rather than only unfinished portions [8] | Whether finished status or a walk-out still changes the answer |
| Voltage scope | 125-volt receptacles [2] | Extended in some editions to cover 125 through 250 volts | Which range the scope sentence in your adopted edition states |
Two of these run in the same direction: the requirement got broader, not narrower. If you are working from advice written a few years ago, the risk is under-installing, not over-installing.
How to find your edition without guessing: ask the building department or electrical inspector for the jurisdiction, or look for the adopted code list on their website. This is a one-question phone call, and it changes what you buy. Any article on this subject — including this one — is describing a moving target.
Two limits on everything that follows, for the same reason. The authority having jurisdiction has the final say: local amendments, the adopted edition, and an inspector's classification of a space all outrank a general summary, and wherever this guide says to verify locally, that is who to ask. And 210.8(A) covers dwelling units — other occupancies are addressed in 210.8(B) and elsewhere, with a different list and different thresholds.
Room by room: what the list looks like in an actual house
The list is precise but abstract. Here is how the eleven items land on a walkthrough, and what to verify rather than assume.
| Room or area | Which item covers it | What triggers it | Worth verifying locally |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bathroom | Item 1, plus item 9 within 6 ft of a tub or shower | The room itself; no distance test needed for item 1 | Nothing — this is the least ambiguous item on the list |
| Kitchen | Item 6, plus item 7 within 6 ft of the sink bowl | Countertop-serving receptacles in older adoptions; kitchen receptacles generally in newer ones | Which wording your edition uses — this is the biggest edition-to-edition difference |
| Laundry area | Item 10, plus item 7 if a utility sink is within 6 ft | The area, whether or not the floor is ever wet | Where the "area" boundary is drawn in your jurisdiction |
| Garage | Item 2 | Being a garage. Not conditional on concrete, tools, or dampness | Whether a detached shop or shed falls under item 2 as an accessory building |
| Basement | Item 5 | Wording varies by edition | Finished status, and whether a walk-out exception applies |
| Crawl space | Item 4 | At or below grade level | Nothing significant |
| Outdoors: porch, deck, patio, exterior wall | Item 3, plus the WR listing and cover rules in 406.9 [6][9] | Being outdoors | Whether the location counts as damp or wet, which decides the cover |
| Boathouse | Item 8 | Being a boathouse | Nothing — it is named outright |
| Wet bar or utility sink in a finished room | Item 7 | Distance from the sink bowl, not the room's function | Measure before assuming the room type exempts it |
| Indoor damp or wet space not named above | Item 11 | The location's classification as damp or wet | How your jurisdiction classifies the space |
Two rooms that surprise people, for opposite reasons. A garage is covered because it is a garage — the usual explanation about concrete slabs and grounded tools describes why the code targets it, but the requirement does not depend on your garage having any of that. And a finished room with a wet bar is covered by item 7 if a receptacle sits within 6 ft of the bowl, even though nothing about the room reads as a "wet area."
The two six-foot rules people miss
Items 7 and 9 are different in kind from the other nine. They are not about what room you are standing in. They are measurements, and each has a specified reference point:
- Sinks: within 1.8 m (6 ft) from the top inside edge of the bowl of the sink. [2]
- Bathtubs and shower stalls: within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the tub or shower stall. [2]
The reference points are worth reading twice, because they are not the same. One measures from inside the bowl; the other from the outside edge of the fixture. Measuring from the faucet, the cabinet edge, or the wall will give you a different answer than the code does.
These two items are why a room-by-room mental model leaks. A receptacle can be in a hallway, a bedroom, a finished basement rec room, or a mudroom and still fall inside one of these radii. If you are auditing a house, measure at every sink and every tub or shower rather than sorting outlets by room name first.
Why the code targets water, damp, and grounded conditions
Knowing the mechanism does not change the list, but it does make the list easier to remember and harder to misapply.
A GFCI compares the current flowing out on the hot conductor with the current returning on the neutral. In normal operation those match. When some current takes a different path back — through water, through a damp wall, through a metal fixture, through a person — the two no longer balance, and the device opens the circuit. It is a shock-protection device, and the threshold is set low enough to interrupt before a fault becomes an injury rather than to protect the wiring.
That mechanism explains the pattern behind the eleven items. Each named location raises one of two odds: how likely current is to find an unintended path, or how good that path is once it exists. Water and damp surfaces supply the path. Concrete slabs, metal plumbing, earth contact in a crawl space, and bare feet on tile all improve it. Outdoors adds a third factor — weather and long-duration cord use — which is why item 3 comes with hardware requirements of its own.
Where the mechanism story gets misused: as a substitute for the list. "This spot seems dry, so it probably does not need one" is reasoning that contradicts items 8 and 10 outright, and misses item 7 routinely. Use the mechanism to understand the requirement, and the list to apply it.
Outdoors: GFCI is one of three requirements
So — do outdoor outlets need to be GFCI? Yes. Item 3 puts every outdoor receptacle in GFCI territory, subject only to the narrow snow-melting and deicing exception covered in the next section. [2] But GFCI protection is one of three requirements that land on an exterior receptacle, and the other two live in a different section of the code. This is the part most commonly missed on an exterior replacement.
| What is being required | Which section | What it applies to |
|---|---|---|
| GFCI protection — the interrupting function | 210.8(A)(3) [2] | The device or upstream device protecting that receptacle |
| A listed weather-resistant type, marked WR | 406.9(A) [9] | The receptacle itself, in damp and wet locations |
| A weatherproof enclosure, and in wet locations a listed "extra-duty" in-use cover | 406.9(A) and 406.9(B)(1) [6] | The box, cover, and hood around the receptacle |
The middle row is the one with two spellings in the wild: the device carries a WR mark, and listings write it out as either weather-resistant or weather resistant. Reading the table is also the fastest way to stop conflating two words that get used interchangeably in those listings. Weather-resistant is a listing on the device; weatherproof is a condition the enclosure has to meet. A weather-resistant GFCI receptacle installed under the wrong cover still fails the third requirement, and a heavy-duty cover does not make an unlisted device compliant.
Damp and wet are two classifications with different cover rules. A receptacle located under a roofed open porch, canopy, marquee, or similar cover, where it will not be subjected to beating rain or water runoff, is considered protected from the weather. [9] In a damp location the enclosure must be weatherproof when the receptacle is covered — plug not inserted, covers closed. [6] In a wet location, under NEC 406.9(B)(1), 15- and 20-ampere, 125- and 250-volt receptacles must have an enclosure that is weatherproof whether or not the attachment plug cap is inserted, and an outlet box hood installed for that purpose must be listed and identified as "extra-duty". [6] Newer editions add that hinged covers must open to at least 90 degrees after installation, or fully open if the design does not reach 90 degrees. [6]
Which of the two applies to your exterior wall is the inspector's call, and it is what decides the cover. So an outdoor GFCI outlet cover is not a cosmetic accessory on this list — it is part of what makes the installation compliant.
Two practical readings of the wet-location sentence:
- "Whether or not the plug is inserted" is what rules out a simple flip-lid cover for wet locations. If a cord is plugged in and the lid cannot close, the assembly is not weatherproof in use. This is why in-use — sometimes called while-in-use — covers exist.
- "Extra-duty" is a marking, not a description. The hood has to be listed and carry that identification. A sturdy-feeling cover without the marking does not satisfy the section.
So an exterior GFCI outlet raises three questions, not one: is GFCI protection provided, is the receptacle a listed weather-resistant type, and does the enclosure meet the requirement for the location's classification.
One naming note, because it causes real confusion when comparing products. GFI and GFCI refer to the same device — GFI is the older informal abbreviation, while the code and the device listing both use GFCI. [1][3] A GFI receptacle and a GFCI receptacle are two names for one product, so comparing an "outdoor GFI outlet" against an "outdoor GFCI receptacle" is comparing spellings. What actually differs between exterior products is the WR listing and the cover, not the abbreviation.
The exceptions, so you do not over-install
A complete answer includes what the list does not require. The codified text carries several exceptions, and knowing them prevents both over-buying and confusion at inspection. [2]
| Exception | Attached to | What it permits |
|---|---|---|
| Snow-melting, deicing, pipeline and vessel heating | Item 3, outdoors | Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to that equipment may be installed per 426.28 or 427.22 instead |
| Permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system | Item 5, basements | A receptacle supplying only that system is not required to have GFCI protection |
| Walk-out basements | Item 5, basements | Excluded in the adoption quoted here — but see the editions section, since newer editions treat basements as a whole |
| Listed locking support and mounting receptacles | Items 1–3, 5–8, and 10 | Those used with compatible attachment fittings to serve a ceiling luminaire or ceiling fan are not required to be GFCI protected. If a general-purpose convenience receptacle is integral to the fixture, GFCI protection is required |
The last one is the easiest to misread. The exception covers the mounting receptacle that holds a ceiling fan or light. The moment that assembly also offers a normal outlet you could plug something into, the exception stops applying.
Note also that all four exceptions are edition-dependent in the same way the main list is. The walk-out basement exception in particular is the one most likely to have changed where you live.
Self-test is no longer a feature choice
This deserves a plain statement because product marketing still treats it as a differentiator.
UL 943, the safety standard for ground-fault circuit interrupters, was revised effective June 29, 2015, and from that date every GFCI a manufacturer produces has to include an auto-monitoring function. [3][4] The self-test runs on its own: the device checks its protection function within about five seconds of power being applied to the line and load terminals, and then periodically — every three hours or less — for the life of the device. The same revision added a reverse line-load miswire function, so a device wired backward does not silently fail to protect. [4] Devices manufactured before that date could remain in the supply chain until inventories cleared, [4] and existing installations were not required to be replaced.
Two consequences for a homeowner:
- A GFCI made after mid-2015 self-tests, regardless of brand or price tier. [5] It is not a premium feature, and its presence does not distinguish one current device from another.
- Self-test does not replace the reset and test buttons or the monthly manual test. Auto-monitoring watches the internal protection circuitry; pressing test verifies the whole installed assembly, including wiring. Device instructions still call for periodic manual testing.
If you are looking at a receptacle installed before roughly 2015 and wondering whether it self-tests, the answer is probably no — which is a reason to check its manual test more carefully, not by itself a code violation.
Which raises the useful question: if every current device self-tests, what is actually left to choose between? Three things, and all of them come straight off the list above — whether the device carries the WR listing the location needs, whether it has tamper-resistant shutters where the code calls for them, and whether the body will physically seat in the box you already have.
Where ELEGRP fits. ELEGRP makes wiring devices for U.S. homes and sells them directly at store.elegrp.com, and its GFCI line is organized around exactly those three decisions. For item 3 there is a weather resistant GFCI outlet carrying both the WR and TR markings, and its own listing is honest about the boundary this article draws — it tells you to pair the device with a weatherproof cover, which is not in the box, because the cover is a separate requirement. [10] For the eight indoor items there is a plain tamper resistant GFCI outlet, [11] a GFCI outlet with USB that puts two USB-C ports and a protected receptacle in one gang for a kitchen or bathroom where wall space has run out, [12] and a version with an automatic nightlight for a hallway or bath that would otherwise get a plug-in one. [13]
Two details that matter more in practice than the spec sheet suggests. The bodies are slim, which is the difference between a 20-minute swap and a fight with a crowded old box. [10][11] And the self-test runs every five seconds rather than at the three-hour floor UL 943 sets, [3][11] with a reset-disable design that refuses to reset once the device reaches end of life instead of pretending to protect. [13] None of that changes where the code requires a device. It changes how little you have to think about the one you installed.
GFCI vs AFCI: different hazard, different device
The AFCI vs GFCI question comes up constantly, because both are safety devices tied to modern branch circuits and both are sold in receptacle form. They solve unrelated problems, and neither substitutes for the other.
| What to compare | GFCI | AFCI |
|---|---|---|
| Hazard addressed | Electric shock | Fire from arcing |
| What it detects | Current returning by an unintended path, detected as an imbalance between hot and neutral | Arcing signatures in wiring or connected cords |
| Where the code puts it in a dwelling | The eleven locations in 210.8(A) [2] | Governed by a separate section, 210.12, oriented to living areas |
The practical rule: they are not substitutes for each other, and in some locations both apply. If your question is about a bathroom, kitchen, garage, laundry area, crawl space, basement, or anywhere outdoors, GFCI is the section to read.
Where AFCI protection is required is its own list, in 210.12, with its own locations and its own exceptions — and this guide does not attempt to summarize it. Two related points worth knowing without going further: the difference between AFCI and GFCI is the hazard, not the quality tier, so a device is not "better" for carrying one rather than the other; and dual-function devices exist that carry both listings, which is relevant where both requirements land on the same circuit but changes neither requirement on its own.
Frequently asked questions
Is a GFCI outlet required outdoors?
Yes. "Outdoors" is item 3 on the list in 210.8(A). [2] The only carve-out is narrow: receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment. [2] Note that GFCI protection is one of three requirements an exterior receptacle has to satisfy — the other two are the WR listing under 406.9(A) and the enclosure and cover rules under 406.9. [6][9]
Do all outdoor outlets need to be GFCI, or only the ones exposed to rain?
All of them. Item 3 says "outdoors" without qualifying it by exposure, so a receptacle under a deep covered porch falls under the same item as one on an open exterior wall. [2] Exposure does matter, but to a different question: it decides whether the location is classified damp or wet, and that classification changes the enclosure and cover rules under 406.9. [6][9] A receptacle protected from the weather — under a roofed open porch, canopy, or marquee, not subject to beating rain or water runoff — can be damp rather than wet, which means a lighter cover requirement. [9] It does not mean a lighter GFCI requirement, because there is no such thing.
Where is the GFCI for an outdoor outlet that has no test and reset buttons?
Probably upstream. Section 210.8(A) requires that those locations have GFCI protection; it does not require that every protected receptacle be a GFCI device itself. Protection is commonly provided by a GFCI receptacle earlier on the circuit feeding the downstream outlets, or by a GFCI breaker in the panel. So a buttonless exterior receptacle may already be protected — which is also why "how many GFCI outlets do I need" has no fixed answer, since one device can cover several locations on the same circuit. Determining which device protects a given outlet means testing the circuit, not reading a label, and that is work for whoever is qualified to open the panel.
Is a GFCI outlet required in a garage?
Yes. Garages are item 2, along with accessory buildings that have a floor at or below grade level, are not intended as habitable rooms, and are limited to storage, work, and similar-use areas. [2] The requirement is not conditional on your garage having a concrete floor, power tools, or moisture — those explain why the code targets garages, but the item applies to garages as such.
Are all kitchen outlets required to be GFCI, or only the countertop ones?
This is the single biggest edition-dependent difference, so check your jurisdiction. In older adoptions, item 6 covers kitchen receptacles "installed to serve the countertop surfaces". [2] Newer editions removed that countertop limitation, which extends the requirement to kitchen receptacles generally. [7] Separately, item 7 applies to any receptacle within 6 ft of the top inside edge of the sink bowl regardless of what the kitchen item says. [2]
Does a finished basement still need GFCI outlets?
Depends on your edition, and this one has moved. In the adoption quoted here, item 5 has an exception excluding receptacles in walk-out basements, and the requirement was historically aimed at unfinished portions. [2] Newer editions treat basements as a whole rather than only unfinished portions. [8] There is also a standing exception for a receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system. [2] Confirm which wording your jurisdiction has adopted before deciding.
How close to a sink does an outlet have to be before GFCI is required?
Within 1.8 m (6 ft), measured from the top inside edge of the bowl of the sink. [2] That is item 7, and it is a distance rule rather than a room rule — it applies in a laundry room, a wet bar, a garage, or a utility area, not only in kitchens and bathrooms. There is a companion rule for bathtubs and shower stalls at the same 6 ft, but measured from the outside edge of the fixture. [2] The two reference points are different, so measure each accordingly.
Do I need GFCI protection for an outlet in a bedroom or hallway?
Not because of the room — bedrooms and hallways are not on the eleven-item list in 210.8(A). But the two distance rules can still reach them. A receptacle in a hallway or bedroom that sits within 6 ft of a sink bowl, or within 6 ft of the outside edge of a tub or shower stall, falls under item 7 or item 9. [2] Measure rather than sort by room name. Bedrooms are also where AFCI requirements typically come up instead, which is a different section of the code.
Is self-test worth paying extra for?
There is nothing to pay extra for. UL 943 has required an auto-monitoring function in every GFCI manufactured since June 29, 2015, [3][4] so any current device self-tests regardless of brand or price. What self-test does not do is replace the manual test: auto-monitoring checks the device's internal protection circuitry, while pressing the test button exercises the installed assembly including its wiring. Device instructions still call for periodic manual testing.
Will a GFCI receptacle fit in an existing electrical box?
Sometimes, and it is a volume question rather than a guess. GFCI devices are deeper than standard duplex receptacles, and the governing calculation is box fill in NEC 314.16, which assigns volume allowances to conductors, devices, clamps, and grounding conductors. [1] An older shallow box that is already full of folded conductors may not accept a GFCI legally even if you can physically force the cover on. None of this is installation instruction, either: replacing a receptacle means de-energizing the circuit at the panel, confirming it is dead before anything comes out of the wall, and terminating conductors correctly, and in many jurisdictions that work requires a licensed electrician or a permit. If box volume is marginal, that is a question for the electrician doing the work, not something to resolve at the shelf.
What is the difference between AFCI and GFCI?
They address unrelated hazards. GFCI is shock protection: it detects current returning by an unintended path, seen as an imbalance between the hot and neutral conductors, and opens the circuit. AFCI is fire protection: it detects arcing signatures in wiring or connected cords. In a dwelling, GFCI locations are the eleven items in 210.8(A); [2] AFCI requirements are in a separate section oriented to living areas. Neither substitutes for the other, and some locations call for both.
How do I find out which code edition applies where I live?
Ask the building department or electrical inspector for your jurisdiction, or check the adopted-codes page on their website. Editions are published on a three-year cycle, jurisdictions adopt on their own schedule, and local amendments are common. This matters concretely here: the kitchen item, the basement item, and the voltage scope in 210.8(A) are all worded differently across recent editions, [2][7][8] so the same house can get different answers depending on which edition governs the work.
The bottom line
The answer to "where are GFCI outlets required in a home" is a list, and the list is 210.8(A)(1) through (A)(11): bathrooms, garages and similar accessory buildings, outdoors, crawl spaces at or below grade, basements, kitchens, within 6 ft of a sink bowl, boathouses, within 6 ft of a bathtub or shower stall, laundry areas, and indoor damp and wet locations. [2] Two of those are measurements rather than rooms, which is why walking the list beats reasoning from how damp a space looks.
Three of them — kitchens, basements, and the voltage scope — are worded differently across recent editions, so the edition your jurisdiction adopted is part of the answer, not a footnote to it. [7][8] Outdoors, the GFCI is one of three requirements: the receptacle also has to be a listed weather-resistant type, and in a wet location the enclosure has to stay weatherproof with a plug in place, with a listed cover marked "extra-duty". [6][9] And self-test is no longer a shopping decision, because UL 943 has required it in every GFCI built since June 29, 2015. [3][4]
References
- NFPA 70, National Electrical Code — NFPA. The code itself, including 210.8 (GFCI protection for personnel) and 314.16 (box fill calculations)
- S.C. Code Regs. § 8-1103 — NEC Article 210.8(A) Dwelling Units, codified text via Cornell Legal Information Institute
- UL 943, Standard for Safety for Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupters — UL Standards & Engagement
- NEMA and UL Revise GFCI Standard, Phase Out Old GFCIs — Electrical Contractor Magazine
- 2016 GFCI Update: Powerful New Layer of Receptacle Safety — ASHI Reporter, American Society of Home Inspectors
- NEC 406.9(B)(1), receptacles of 15 and 20 amperes in a wet location — code text transcription via UpCodes; hinged-cover provision cross-checked against a manufacturer code-update reference, Leviton Captain Code
- 2023 NEC Update — 210.8(A) GFCI for Personnel, Dwelling Units — Mars Electric
- GFCI Protection for Dwelling Unit — Leviton Captain Code
- NEC 406.9(A), receptacles in damp locations and the weather-resistant listing — code text transcription via UpCodes; the WR listing requirement for nonlocking 15A and 20A, 125V and 250V receptacles in damp locations cross-read against EC&M's code Q&A and Leviton Captain Code
- ELEGRP Outdoor GFCI Outlet, 15A/20A, Self-Test, Weather & Tamper Resistant — official product listing: WR and TR, twin solenoids with dual SCRs, self-test every 5 seconds, surge and lightning protection, slim profile for shallow boxes, screwless wall plate included, weatherproof cover not included, UL and cUL listed
- ELEGRP GFCI Outlet, 15A/20A, Self-Test, Tamper-Resistant — official product listing: twin solenoids with dual SCRs, self-test every 5 seconds, TR shutters, 6,000+ factory tests, surge and lightning protection, slim body for shallow boxes, screwless wall plate included, UL and cUL listed
- ELEGRP GFCI Outlet with USB Type C/C Ports, 15A/20A 125V 24W, Tamper-Resistant — official product listing: dual USB-C sharing 24W total, GFCI-protected AC outlet, self-test every 5 seconds, patented dual-coil protection with reset-disable, self-grounding option, flame-retardant housing, fits standard electrical boxes, UL listed
- ELEGRP GFCI Outlet with Nightlight, 15A/20A, Self-Test, Tamper-Resistant — official product listing: automatic light-sensing nightlight, twin solenoids with SCR, self-test every 5 seconds and 0.025-second trip, reset-disable at end of life, reverse wiring protection, 12 or 14 AWG, screwless wall plate included, UL and cUL listed
